HONOLULU (KHON2) — Sushi is often described as art you can eat. The colors, textures and flavors turn a simple meal into a celebration.
Yet there is a darker side. Many popular fish species face sharp decline because of overfishing, and that reality inspired one itamae (sushi chef) from Honolulu who has embarked on rethinking sushi entirely.
Kin Lui, owner of Tane Vegan Izakaya, grew up in Honolulu and graduated from McKinley High School. He studied at Honolulu Community College and Kapiʻolani Community College before realizing his path was elsewhere.
He moved to San Francisco, where he trained with leading itamae and discovered a passion for sustainable cuisine.
It was in San Franciso that we first encountered Lui’s magnificent creations. When we discovered he had opened a location right here in Honolulu, we couldn’t wait to try it; and it was an experience that redefined how we experienced sushi.
So, of course, KHON2.com had to investigate Lui’s passion and what drives him a bit more.
“Reading about how fish are declining due to overfishing was something that really impacted me,” said Lui. “Going back to the sushi bar made me feel depressed. Was there even anything I could do?”
That question led him to partner with Casson Trenor, who urged him to create a sustainable sushi restaurant. Their first venture, Tataki Sushi and Sake Bar, earned a name in San Francisco for high-end sustainable sushi. (This place usually has a month’s long waiting list, if you’re lucky.)
Lui returned to Hawaiʻi in 2017, hoping his children could grow up close to the culture and land he loved as a keiki.
“When my daughter was born, I decided to move back home to Hawaiʻi,” said Lui. After taking a year away from the industry, he began searching for a location to open a vegan sushi restaurant here.
At first, developers showed little interest. Lui even considered returning to San Francisco.
“The day before I was leaving to go back to San Fransisco, a friend from high school called to tell me that a restaurant was for lease,” said Lui. “So, my friend took me to this location on South Beretania Street; and when I saw it, I just had this feeling.”
He decided to stay; and Tane Vegan Izakaya opened in 2019. It offers inventive dishes such as the Barber sushi roll. This roll is sliced and served with a sake shot. One piece has a super spicy pepper in it, and the person who gets that piece wins the sake shot. It’s lot of fun.
“After I ate at Tane for the first time, I was hooked,” said Honolulu resident Kimo Lauer. “I didn’t quite know what to expect. But it made regular sushi seem very boring.”
Tane’s success has since spread beyond Honolulu. Lui has opened three other Tane locations in California (Palo Alto, Berkeley and Highland Park), along with Shizen Vegan Sushi Bar & Izakaya in San Franscisco.
You can click here to view the menu at Tane and make reservations.
Lui continues to expand what sushi can mean for the future. The best part about the Honolulu location is there is more availability for reservations. So, you don’t have to one to two months before being able to enjoy these ono dishes.